Wines to Drink to Get Through a Pandemic - Part 1

To say that we are living in unsettling times is an understatement for the ages. Writing about wine does not exactly feel like an adequate response to the world in chaos, but seeing as many of us are staying home, cooking and probably opening some wine, I thought I'd share a few wines I've tried recently in the hopes that some of you may enjoy them too.

 

Gérard Bertrand Réserve Spéciale Viognier 2018

$14.95  |   VINTAGES#:  147975

This is a superb value wine. While Viognier can sometimes be a bit too rich for some people's palates, with very ripe fruit and lower acid that can make the wine seem a bit blousy or heavy, this one has all the gorgeous ripe peach and apricot fruit strung on a lean citrus finish. The acid is lively and the alcohol moderate, making this very drinkable. For lovers of a heavier style of white without oak aging, this is a great choice as it is a great combination of weight on the mid-palate with a fresh herbal and slightly bitter finish. I'd serve this with seafood - shrimp or crab risotto would be great - or with something a bit spicy to balance the fruit in the wine.

For those who are interested, Gerard Bertrand farms biodynamically, which means:

"[The winery uses] a set of farming practices that views the farm or vineyard as one solid organism. The ecosystem functions as a whole, with each portion of the farm or vineyard contributing to the next. The idea is to create a self-sustaining system. Natural materials, soils, and composts are used to sustain the vineyard. Chemical fertilizers and pesticides are forbidden for the sake of soil fertility. A range of animals from ducks to horses to sheep live on the soil and fertilize it, creating a rich, fertile environment for the vines to grow in. Biodynamic farming also seeks sustainability, or leaving the land in as good or better shape as they found it for future generations." (Source: Vinepair.com)

Biodynamic farming is essentially organic+, great for our planet and in my opinion tends to produce better wines. Gerard Bertrand makes a number of good quality and value wines that are often in the LCBO.

 

LaCheteau Les Cimes Haut Poitou Sauvignon Blanc 2018

$14.95   |   VINTAGES#:  10632

I take no credit for finding this bottle as it was recommended to me by my good friend and brilliant chef Damon Clements, who has one of the best wine palates I've ever encountered. For anyone who loves and buys Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc, the first thing you will notice about this wine is the great price! Many of the amazing white wines that come from regions like Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé in the Loire can be twice the price or more. And while this may not have the sophistication of those appellations, it is well worth a try if you are looking for crisp, bright fruit - Meyer lemon and mandarin orange - along with zingy acid and stony minerality. This wine is vibrant, fresh and reminds me of summer in the garden. Serve this with a lovely salad with fresh goat cheese or with any lighter white fish cooked with lemon and dill.

 

Bordón Viña Sole Tête de Cuvée Reserva 2011

$26.95  |   VINTAGES#:  12296

My last bottle today is a wine that just sings to me from the moment I open it. White Rioja is definitely not as common on LCBO shelves as red and there is not a lot of this left in the GTA but if you can find a few bottles I urge you to do so. This is 100% Viura (also known as Macabeu in Catalonia where it is used in the blend for Cava) and has seen 24 months in American and French oak, as well as an additional seven years in bottle before hitting our market. The result is a gorgeous wine with layers of flavour from a touch of burnt caramel and honey to buttered toast and roasted hazelnut. It puts me in mind of a Jura Chardonnay with its rich, oxidized nose and palate and distinctive Sherry-like quality. If you are not a fan of what oak and aging does to white wines - essentially transforming primary flavours like fresh fruit into the more aged and oxidative notes I've described above - don't buy this. Those of us who love this style of wine will thank you for leaving some of it on the shelves for us :).

I'd serve this with tapas - Marcona almonds, olives, aged Manchego and grilled sardines - as the complexity of this wine would pair nicely with many different flavours and textures. You could also try it with roasted chicken or even a Coq au Vin made with some of the same wine (but don't use too much of it - save it for drinking!) Serve it a bit warmer than you would normally serve a white wine, as when too cold this wine will lose some of its character - 10-12C is good. Finally, although this might seem like an old wine already, I'd suggest buying a few bottles if you can. Drink one now and save a couple for three to four years as I think it has some time (the surprisingly lively acidity says so for sure) to age and change, becoming deeper and earthier still.

Until next time, please stay safe and enjoy your wine.

Anjana